Forage Cap
The forage cap is the standard fatigue cap worm in the Union army, especially by armies in the east. This nearly shapeless cap literally tops off a quality historical impression. It is recommended that extra care be taken with the selection of a forage cap, as it makes an instant impression on fellow reenactors, event organizers, and the public.
Research suggests that no ornamentation be worm on forage caps. However, you may limit ornamentation to a single item, such as the brass-stamped company letter (H), a red felt trefoil, or cloverleaf (the symbol of the 1st Division of the 2nd Corps at Gettysburg and after), or the hunter's horn (the symbol of the infantry).
Do not add ornamentation such as feathers, fur, or modern symbols or emblems, such as Canadian flag pins.
If you plan to purchase only one forage cap, leave the crown empty. Doing so allows you to fall-in with another unit at larger events without compromising their authenticity (displaying 5th New Hampshire symbols when falling in with the 20th Maine, for example -- a different regiment and a different corps).
A kepi is different from a forage cap. Before purchasing a hat, be sure you understand the different between a forage cap and a kepi. Although research results vary, most infantry-enlisted men wore forage caps (with flat crowns), while kepis (with the recessed crown and custom shape) may be worn more correctly by officers.
In order to present a standard of appearance within Co. H, the forage cap is your headgear of choice. Slouch hats, Hardee hats, and "private purchase" hats should not usually be worn (except, see below). Appropriate hats of another design may be worn by officers, as may be kepis and forage caps (as officers were expected to purchase their own uniforms). While exceptions to this uniform appearance may be allowed, every enlisted man should have a forage cap.
Early New Hampshire regiments were issued forage caps contracted by the state. They had a stitched brim, state chin strap buttons, a smaller brass hunter's horn with faux embroidery, the Company letter, and silver letters, "NHV". (See Echoes of Glory, p. 176). In the field, these were replaced by standard forage caps.
Using modern technology, forage caps are often divided into two main types: Type 1 and Type 2. (There are other variations, such as the McDowell cap, but these should not be worn by members of the Fifth New Hampshire). Generally speaking, Type 1 refers to early-war caps, while Type 2 refers to late-war. Although many prefer the look of late war forage caps (higher crown, more forward rake), the early-war forage caps will serve you well, no matter what period of the war is being portrayed.
Shirt
An off-white, three-or-four button muslin shirt was the standard military issue, but as the war progressed, many soldiers purchased shirts from sutlers or were fortunate to have one sent from home. Your pullover shirt, therefore, may be of numerous colours or designs, but should fit the period pattern. It should generally feature a standing collar, three or four buttons at the neck (usually made of bone or mother-of-pearl, but not usually of wood), and be of appropriate cloth and pattern.
The wise reenactor owns more than one shirt. Coming in off a march, drill, or batter, and facing cool evening air in a wet, sweat-soaked shirt makes for an unpleasant experience!
Sack Coat
The four-button sack coat was the common fatigue jacket issued by the army. Its simple "sack-like" design made it easy to cut and sow, and thus, was cheap to make. This should be your coat of choice.
Recent research shows that over 70% of sack coats were lines. Reproduction lined coats are readily available, but are more expensive. They do have the advantage of being more historically accurate and keeping you a little warmer in cool weather, while the lining also helps the coat to better hold its shape.
Members who serve both as a private and as a non-commissioned officer (NCO) must be prepared to purchase a second coat, one with stripes to accurately portray the rank, and one without, for serving as a private. This is important, too, when falling-in with other units. It is presumptuous to arrive at their event as an NCO; bring both coats. Let them decide if they want you to serve as an NCO, as you will be viewed with greater favour that way.
Before buying online, ask if coats come with buttons. Some sutlers require that buttons be purchased separately, or charge a fee for sewing them on.
It pays to spend a little more money on a quality sack coat. Cheaply-made coats will turn purple over time when exposed to the sun.
If you choose to own a second coat, the enlisted man's frock coat is an excellent selection. It is a longer coat, features more buttons and has smart-looking sky blue (infantry) piping. It was the standard choice of selected regiments, such as the Iron Brigade. The frock coat is a great looking coat and is perfect for formal (dress) occasions.
Trousers
Sky blue trousers were standard issue (although photographic evidence shows some enlisted men with dark blue trousers). They wear different than modern pants, riding higher around the middle, and not down around the waist. It is wisest to try trousers on and not just rely on mail order. However, some sutlers have detailed size charts to help you with the sizing of all clothing items, including trousers.
If you are a private, do not purchase trousers with a stripe on the side. The blue stripes (for infantry) are symbols of rank and for quick recognition on a smoky battlefield. Narrow stripes were for corporals, wider stripes for sergeants. Officers usually wore Federal blue pants to match their coats, but this was not always possible while on campaign, so variations were frequent.
Be sure to check if trousers come with buttons (fly and for braces). Some sutlers require that buttons be purchased separately.
Braces
You will need braces (suspenders) for your trousers. Be sure that these are of a period-correct pattern, of which there are several.
In their online catalogue, the sutler C & D Jarnagin shows how to correctly use their period-correct braces.
You will read that elastic braces were not used in the Civil War. They were, but modern braces should be avoided.
Socks
Two or more pairs of heavy wool socks (often grey or off-white) are required, because dry feet are critical to the marching ability of the infantry soldier. Ideally, to be more authentic, these should contain no elastic.
Some reenactors wear their socks on the outside of their trousers to serve as a nearly maintenance-free pair of gaiters. This keeps cuffs from getting caught on heels, and helps keep ticks and other insects from crawling up one's legs. Photographs show this style of dress, but it was not common.
Like shirts, socks were often sent from home, so as the war progressed, a wide variety of socks were worn.
Shoes
The Jefferson Bootee, or brogan, was the standard army shoe. Like other uniform items and equipment, brogans came in a variety of patterns and qualities. This is true today as well. Choose them carefully; reenacting is not fun when struggling with sore feet.
Some research indicates that you should purchase brogans with the rough-side out. Smooth, shiny boots with the rough side hidden on the inside, they claim, came into use after the war. However, there is evidence to dispute this.
Look for brogans with stitches soles instead of pegged soles. Both were used during the war, but soles held in place by recessed stitching last longer than those fastened by wooden pegs and were more prevalent.
Purchase heel plates with your brogans. Heel plates add a small cost, but are worth it; they sound great, and help your brogans last longer by preventing heels from wearing. Most sutlers will install them upon purchase, either on-site or through mail order.
Unless you have been elected as an officer, do not purchase artillery boots or the tall, cavalry-style boots.
Caution: Brogans can be very slippery on rocks, pavement, or on modern tile floors.
Frock Coat (Optional)
This distinctive long coat is perfect for dress occasions, such as parades, dances, funerals, and other formal occasions, although the frock coat was also worn in the field.
It is recommended that, if you plan to purchase two coats, the four-button sack coat be your first choice, and the frock coat be your second.
The infantry frock features sky blue piping.
Greatcoat (Optional)
While not an essential uniform item, especially for new members, in our region the greatcoat is very nearly essential, and is certainly "great" to own! It is a heavy sky-blue coat with a cape and wide cuffs that can be rolled over the hands for extra warmth, and can also be used as an extra blanket. The greatcoat is excellent for early mornings and for use around the campfire at night. We have been happy to wear them during early-spring parades.
Foot-pattern greatcoats differ in features from mounted-pattern coats. Be sure to purchase the foot-pattern coat.
The forage cap is the standard fatigue cap worm in the Union army, especially by armies in the east. This nearly shapeless cap literally tops off a quality historical impression. It is recommended that extra care be taken with the selection of a forage cap, as it makes an instant impression on fellow reenactors, event organizers, and the public.
Research suggests that no ornamentation be worm on forage caps. However, you may limit ornamentation to a single item, such as the brass-stamped company letter (H), a red felt trefoil, or cloverleaf (the symbol of the 1st Division of the 2nd Corps at Gettysburg and after), or the hunter's horn (the symbol of the infantry).
Do not add ornamentation such as feathers, fur, or modern symbols or emblems, such as Canadian flag pins.
If you plan to purchase only one forage cap, leave the crown empty. Doing so allows you to fall-in with another unit at larger events without compromising their authenticity (displaying 5th New Hampshire symbols when falling in with the 20th Maine, for example -- a different regiment and a different corps).
A kepi is different from a forage cap. Before purchasing a hat, be sure you understand the different between a forage cap and a kepi. Although research results vary, most infantry-enlisted men wore forage caps (with flat crowns), while kepis (with the recessed crown and custom shape) may be worn more correctly by officers.
In order to present a standard of appearance within Co. H, the forage cap is your headgear of choice. Slouch hats, Hardee hats, and "private purchase" hats should not usually be worn (except, see below). Appropriate hats of another design may be worn by officers, as may be kepis and forage caps (as officers were expected to purchase their own uniforms). While exceptions to this uniform appearance may be allowed, every enlisted man should have a forage cap.
Early New Hampshire regiments were issued forage caps contracted by the state. They had a stitched brim, state chin strap buttons, a smaller brass hunter's horn with faux embroidery, the Company letter, and silver letters, "NHV". (See Echoes of Glory, p. 176). In the field, these were replaced by standard forage caps.
Using modern technology, forage caps are often divided into two main types: Type 1 and Type 2. (There are other variations, such as the McDowell cap, but these should not be worn by members of the Fifth New Hampshire). Generally speaking, Type 1 refers to early-war caps, while Type 2 refers to late-war. Although many prefer the look of late war forage caps (higher crown, more forward rake), the early-war forage caps will serve you well, no matter what period of the war is being portrayed.
Shirt
An off-white, three-or-four button muslin shirt was the standard military issue, but as the war progressed, many soldiers purchased shirts from sutlers or were fortunate to have one sent from home. Your pullover shirt, therefore, may be of numerous colours or designs, but should fit the period pattern. It should generally feature a standing collar, three or four buttons at the neck (usually made of bone or mother-of-pearl, but not usually of wood), and be of appropriate cloth and pattern.
The wise reenactor owns more than one shirt. Coming in off a march, drill, or batter, and facing cool evening air in a wet, sweat-soaked shirt makes for an unpleasant experience!
Sack Coat
The four-button sack coat was the common fatigue jacket issued by the army. Its simple "sack-like" design made it easy to cut and sow, and thus, was cheap to make. This should be your coat of choice.
Recent research shows that over 70% of sack coats were lines. Reproduction lined coats are readily available, but are more expensive. They do have the advantage of being more historically accurate and keeping you a little warmer in cool weather, while the lining also helps the coat to better hold its shape.
Members who serve both as a private and as a non-commissioned officer (NCO) must be prepared to purchase a second coat, one with stripes to accurately portray the rank, and one without, for serving as a private. This is important, too, when falling-in with other units. It is presumptuous to arrive at their event as an NCO; bring both coats. Let them decide if they want you to serve as an NCO, as you will be viewed with greater favour that way.
Before buying online, ask if coats come with buttons. Some sutlers require that buttons be purchased separately, or charge a fee for sewing them on.
It pays to spend a little more money on a quality sack coat. Cheaply-made coats will turn purple over time when exposed to the sun.
If you choose to own a second coat, the enlisted man's frock coat is an excellent selection. It is a longer coat, features more buttons and has smart-looking sky blue (infantry) piping. It was the standard choice of selected regiments, such as the Iron Brigade. The frock coat is a great looking coat and is perfect for formal (dress) occasions.
Trousers
Sky blue trousers were standard issue (although photographic evidence shows some enlisted men with dark blue trousers). They wear different than modern pants, riding higher around the middle, and not down around the waist. It is wisest to try trousers on and not just rely on mail order. However, some sutlers have detailed size charts to help you with the sizing of all clothing items, including trousers.
If you are a private, do not purchase trousers with a stripe on the side. The blue stripes (for infantry) are symbols of rank and for quick recognition on a smoky battlefield. Narrow stripes were for corporals, wider stripes for sergeants. Officers usually wore Federal blue pants to match their coats, but this was not always possible while on campaign, so variations were frequent.
Be sure to check if trousers come with buttons (fly and for braces). Some sutlers require that buttons be purchased separately.
Braces
You will need braces (suspenders) for your trousers. Be sure that these are of a period-correct pattern, of which there are several.
In their online catalogue, the sutler C & D Jarnagin shows how to correctly use their period-correct braces.
You will read that elastic braces were not used in the Civil War. They were, but modern braces should be avoided.
Socks
Two or more pairs of heavy wool socks (often grey or off-white) are required, because dry feet are critical to the marching ability of the infantry soldier. Ideally, to be more authentic, these should contain no elastic.
Some reenactors wear their socks on the outside of their trousers to serve as a nearly maintenance-free pair of gaiters. This keeps cuffs from getting caught on heels, and helps keep ticks and other insects from crawling up one's legs. Photographs show this style of dress, but it was not common.
Like shirts, socks were often sent from home, so as the war progressed, a wide variety of socks were worn.
Shoes
The Jefferson Bootee, or brogan, was the standard army shoe. Like other uniform items and equipment, brogans came in a variety of patterns and qualities. This is true today as well. Choose them carefully; reenacting is not fun when struggling with sore feet.
Some research indicates that you should purchase brogans with the rough-side out. Smooth, shiny boots with the rough side hidden on the inside, they claim, came into use after the war. However, there is evidence to dispute this.
Look for brogans with stitches soles instead of pegged soles. Both were used during the war, but soles held in place by recessed stitching last longer than those fastened by wooden pegs and were more prevalent.
Purchase heel plates with your brogans. Heel plates add a small cost, but are worth it; they sound great, and help your brogans last longer by preventing heels from wearing. Most sutlers will install them upon purchase, either on-site or through mail order.
Unless you have been elected as an officer, do not purchase artillery boots or the tall, cavalry-style boots.
Caution: Brogans can be very slippery on rocks, pavement, or on modern tile floors.
Frock Coat (Optional)
This distinctive long coat is perfect for dress occasions, such as parades, dances, funerals, and other formal occasions, although the frock coat was also worn in the field.
It is recommended that, if you plan to purchase two coats, the four-button sack coat be your first choice, and the frock coat be your second.
The infantry frock features sky blue piping.
Greatcoat (Optional)
While not an essential uniform item, especially for new members, in our region the greatcoat is very nearly essential, and is certainly "great" to own! It is a heavy sky-blue coat with a cape and wide cuffs that can be rolled over the hands for extra warmth, and can also be used as an extra blanket. The greatcoat is excellent for early mornings and for use around the campfire at night. We have been happy to wear them during early-spring parades.
Foot-pattern greatcoats differ in features from mounted-pattern coats. Be sure to purchase the foot-pattern coat.